"Milan Men SS13: Day 2"
24th June, 2012
There it was...
The second day of this Milan Men’s (half) week was starting in the best possible way, after a relatively quiet night yesterday with the Philipp Plein event in via Clerici.
So what best than a six-hour night sleep before kicking out this Sunday with the following names on my calendar:
9am - Bottega Veneta
10.30am - Ermanno Scervino
12.30pm - Salvatore Ferragamo
2pm - Calvin Klein Collection
3pm - Vivienne Westwood
4pm - Squeeze into the quite interesting presentation of Belstaff collection in their Milan showroom
5pm - Trussardi
6pm - Prada
7pm - Moncler
8pm - Roberto Cavalli
And, in the evening, I had to get energised and ready for the Dolce&Gabbana event (starting at 10pm) at their own venue, the Metropol theatre...
So, let’s take a big breath together and let get absorbed by another crazy day in a very hot Milan town.
And, as I said, the morning could not start better than with Bottega Veneta Men’s Fashion show.
Tomas Maier, creative director of the brand, presented a collection where brown and suede (two concepts that may not be easily associated to Summer) were the key themes.
In particular, I picked up few looks where this combination seemed to be translated astonishingly well.
Check out the first look (which was also the opening of the show): a nice light brown suede long-sleeved jumper with laces on the opening of the collar (instead of the classic buttoning). In Italy, we used to say “Who wears brown with grey, does know what to say...”. Which means: never mix up grey with brown colours, because they would not fit together at all.
The exception came anyway with this collection: not only the first look I have chosen above showed a combo of brown jumper and grey trousers, but also the second look I am posting below (a nice brown T-shirt with dark grey trousers) shows a simple and effective right combination of the two colours, in a way that is elegant and minimalistic at the same time.
The latter is definitively a look to be taken into account even just for simple inspiration.
The other two looks I have chosen represent the total look definition of the two questioned colours: a nice brown total look, simple and light in the way it is presented; and a grey suit with double breasted jacket on top of a grey button-less shirt opened up on the chest.
Please note also the trainers worn in all these looks: simple and comfortable, as a casual Summer look should be, without too much pretending.
Lastly, there were anyway some looks that made me scream out towards the end of the show. You can see one of the worst ones I picked up: a floral combo (again) made up by a suit and a floral-crowded shirt, which just seem not to be right on any man on earth...
A nice surprise for this season was Ermanno Scervino.
Finally, someone presenting some masculine and commercial looks, which did not go into the “too basic, too insignificant” trap.
There were some very nice jumpers and light cardigans, paired up with shirts or just to be worn bare chest (well, if you have the physique, of course, but remember a good thing of the cardigan is that you can always button it up or down in order to show or hide your strong points...).
There were light trousers and light jacket, all in light blue or grey, which could be put together for an evening look which many of us can find attractive for these last minute dates we have during our holidays on a posh beach destination.
You can see a selection of four of those looks which I found quite interesting and definitively worth of consideration.
If I had to find (with difficulty) something I did not think was appropriate in this collection, was the final look I have picked up, for the way these light blue items are mixed up in their different shades and, especially, for the flinging scarf complementing this look, which seemed to be too flamboyant for these days and especially for the idea of SS13 man that Ermanno Scervino wanted to propose us.
Here comes the new man of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Salvatore Ferragamo is the Italian brand with most American appealing.
Possibly, this is why the brand is very successful in the US, not only for the shoes (which are recognised as a “must have” item for both women and men), but also for the easy to wear looks and the not too stretched fits.
This Menswear collection was the triumph of electric colours: orange, blue, yellow.
You can see the best representation of this idea in the look I have chosen at the opening of this paragraph.
Difficult colours to wear, I have to say, unless you are going on holiday to Ibiza (which, by the way, will be one of the destinations covered in one of my July posts with interesting insights on the Ibizenca night lifestyle and street style).
But I have selected few interesting motives that give the LA based style concept of this Menswear collection.
In particular, three drove my attention as potential wearable and attractive combos.
The first one is the nice connection of a light turquoise jumper, broken by white and light green stripes on top, paired up with white trousers.
The second one is mainly focused on the orange jacket, perfect for the early mornings out in Ibiza, just after a night at Pacha, when the wind starts blowing.
The third look is a nice one-button double breasted electric blue jacket, with a jumper and a shirt underneath, always paired up with very light trousers. Perfect for LA style parties on a yacht.
What I found most attractive in all these looks, were actually the shoes: nice, colourful trainers, which simply added something to every look, and which are definitively the Salvatore Ferragamo item to have, if you definitely want to spend some money on this brand.
Finally, just for the intrigue, I have also picked up this peculiar look: a white jacket with a kind of flowing blue paint on the shoulders.
A nice item for the ones who want to dare a bit more next summer...
In any case, there were some other looks that did not seem right: again, here we have two vertical striped looks, always part of the NEGATIVE trend of this season related to the “pyjama nights” movement (which, I am still pretty sure, none of us wants to really belong to...)
Calvin Klein Collection
After a quick lunch break, during which I do not even remember what I have eaten, here I am at the Calvin Klein Collection.
In this case, almost as opposed to Salvatore Ferragamo, an American brand inspired by Italian concepts and attitudes.
Calvin Klein, whose creative direction has been for the last few years under Italo Zucchelli, is famous not only for its underwear, but also for basic and simple design, easy to wear fit and not too complex details.
In the last few seasons, the brand has gone through different experimentations on fabrics and textures, which convey a stronger and renewed luxury feeling from the customers.
Of course, keep in mind that, for example, a Calvin Klein Menswear customer will possibly NEVER be a passionate fan of Versace Menswear.
Just to give you an idea, we are talking about two completely different worlds. And the looks I have chosen for you here on the left and below, which some of you might find boring and repetitive, are some of the easiest to wear and most commercial pieces you will ever find in any fashion show these days.
Let’s start from a total denim look (on the left picture), which the head designer found as the main inspirational theme of this SS13 collection. It is good to see some denim pieces sometimes, and the fact this is one of the first total denim looks (and maybe will be the only one...) of this season makes us take a big breath we thought we would have never gone to wear again the tiny denim jacket we bought few years ago...
Then below we have two more basic looks, typical Calvin Klein’s signature: a white T-shirt with blue borders on the sleeves and (something that broke the monotony of the catwalk) a nice beige total look, where a fitted and trendy zip jacket stood out.
Some of the bad moments of this show were instead towards the finale: here there was a succession of printed flowers on shirts, jackets, trousers, which did not add anything special to all these items. You see a representation of those in the two final looks I have picked up for this brand.
Then we have her Majesty, Vivienne Westwood.
I know: either you love her or you hate her.
There is never a middle point for Madame Westwood.And so, either your appreciate her constant exaggeration of shapes and proportion, her witty sense of fashion, her insolent attitude in setting up niche trends, or you are simply critical of everything she does.
Nevertheless, this designer has been on the edge for many, many years, and her menswear collections are always worth mentioning, no matter how extreme they could look at first sight.
With this attitude in mind, let’s explore a bit of the Vivienne Westwood’s Menswear world for SS13.
Just to make you understand my point: Vivienne Westwood typical signature is the check pattern you see at the opening of this paragraph. And trust me: this is the only time (and designer) where you can wear a total check look and still being considered quite fashionable.
So if the square patterns are your passion, Vivienne Westwood is definitively the brand to look for.
Other looks I have selected are the three following below: each one of this shows a special item worth mentioning, which embodies deeply the Westwood culture.
From the long patched cardigan of the first look, through the grey shirts with elongated lapels of the second image, to the irresistible brown striped jumper and shorts combo of the third look.
Still, there are always some looks that, even if from Vivienne Westwood, you will never dare to try on.
You have a couple of examples here: a long, elongated jumper, ending up as a skirt, resembling a men’s dress with doubt connotations...
And a funny check ensemble of shirt and shorts under a "normal" classic suit jacket, that simply does not match with anything!
Belstaff presentation was a good way to break up this quite hectic day here in Milan.
Belstaff’s new creative director, Martin Cooper, showed a pretty strong collection, made up of some pieces that went away from the core item for what the brand is known for worldwide (which is indeed the famous “cerata” dark blue aviator jacket).
So I have chosen two pictures here that can give you a hint on the new movement this brand is taking towards its outerwear collection.
The collection was too small anyway to pick up any negative, so I just felt it was appropriate to give this brand a chance to launch itself again amongst the global fashion icon competitors.
Trussardi has always been known as the “greyhound” dog brand, due to its main symbol that you can find embossed in the majority of the garments and accessories made by the brand.
Trussardi is a family owned business which encompasses all the elements of the classic posh Italian family in elegant garments that are never too over-stated or pompous. The brand’s main identity is “simple is better, as soon as it is elegant and classic with a little twist”.
Indeed, you can find a representation of this statement in the pictures I have selected for you here.
From the first one here on the left, showing a classic look in white and grey with a simple gilet and perfectly assorted small accessories, to the second one (below), showing a typical Trussardi look (the image you should have always in mind if you decide to wear Trussardi even as inspiration) made of a foulard (or silk scarf if you want to call it like this) around the neck, open shirt, jacket and light trousers, to the third one, where the attention is mainly focused on the blue ostrich (I am sorry guys, exotic animals are still synonym of luxury nowadays...) leather jacket, to the fourth picture, characterised by a shirts and shorts blue total look.
Another image I decided to take, more for pointing out the experimentation this brand has been pursuing in the last season, is this jacket with front panel and sleeves made in brown leather and the remaining parts in fabrics, in a nice composed look that will make this piece as recognisable from Trussardi (please also note the small brown leather patch on the front with the greyhound).
Still, there were some looks (almost always characterised by weird prints...) that made my sight distorted.
You can see one of this: another total pyjama look, which simply does not seem right (and for sure it does not scream luxury and trendy...).
Then we had one of the most claimed, controversial and always surprising designer’s shows.
I am talking about Miuccia Prada.
Prada brand for Menswear is not the easiest you may think to wear. If you intend to buy a Prada piece, you have to figure out it is going to be almost as an artistic piece.
Don’t think you are buying something very commercial: not everyone in the street will like what you are wearing.
You are buying something only few people around will really appreciate, apart from yourself.
But please note some of the great things of a Prada item: clean cut, a peculiar detail coming up from the whole garment, contrasting vivid colours.
So you can generally see as a Prada item a double-collared shirt or T-shirt, or a coat with two different panels seamed in the middle, or some other peculiarities which will make the piece you want to buy from the brand as a piece of art, almost as a painting that comes alive in 3D, more than a single piece of clothing.
With this in mind, you can then approach any Prada’s fashion show with an objective point of view. And you can appreciate the looks I have chosen here.
The first one (on the right) is indeed a nice vivid blue suit, whose main detail is the double panelled white and blue shirt beneath. Please note the peculiarity of this look: it is not everyone’s cup of tea, but still, you know you will make an appearance when wearing this.
The second look I liked is the mix of beige trousers and trench coat, with the same inserted Bordeaux panels as details (in the inside leg and in the front flaps respectively).
The third look is the one I liked most (and indeed I have picked up two more colour variants for this): a grey undershirt (or vest or singlet, however you want to call it...) with a white border around the open neck, covered up by a grey coat (or jacket) and completed by a pair of grey trousers (while in the next two looks, the trousers also present some inserted same-colour-as-the-border-of the-vest panels in the inner seams along the legs).
A look which is simple, very summer, and elegant at the same time.
Please also note the shoes: simple sandals with the same peculiarities of double coloured layers.
And just as a reminder for the future, never underestimate a pair of Prada shoes: you will see them around sooner or later, in their original form or just copied by other aggressive competitors. They are one of the key trendsetting items of this brand, both for women and men.
Lastly, I found anyway some disturbing looks, more for the mixture of colours they presented than for their actual composition. You find three of those in succession closing this paragraph: just avoid wearing something in line with these looks, if you do not want to look sad and old like the models who are wearing them here...
Almost at the end of the day... Moncler Gamme Blue.
Moncler is obviously famous for its puffer jackets in shiny colours, with a not-so-trendy-branded-patch on the sleeve. Still, those puffers became one of the trendiest and best sold items of these years.
I am sure you have seen them around, especially if you like to travel in cities like Milan or Paris, where it seems every inhabitant has at least one Moncler puffer in his or her closet.
Thom Browne, who is the current creative director of this brand, wants (of course) to upgrade Moncler to a different level, creating a range of clothes that are different from the famous down jacket, but still keeping in mind the main characteristics related to the success of this company.
So today’s fashion show was mainly characterised by clothes reminding the customer of the water-proofing capability and of the shiny fabrics that made the success in the previous years. Would this be still a strong point to be followed?I don’t know...
I just found the collection really weird and with just two looks (out of nearly 40) to be saved and which you can find here below. These are: the blue navy look composed by a double breasted jacket and same colour shorts (please ignore the long socks, which I kindly beg you to avoid wearing in any circumstance if you are wearing shorts too and you do not want to look like a tourist who lost his way in the city from a trip in the mountains...); and the total white look, which seems right when you want to get an angelic look in front of your “competitors” in the seduction arena...
You know what I mean...
I have also selected two looks (but trust me, there were many more...) that were simply horrific.
Please, don’t ask me why... I am sure you can see what is wrong on those, and if you don’t, well, I kindly ask you to leave this website right now, please.
Finally, here we come to the last show of the day: Roberto Cavalli.
I am sure you are familiar with the transgressive, unconventional, animal-printed garments (in particular shirts and trousers) that made this brand particularly famous for men in the first years of 2000.
For sure, if you are a Cavalli customer, it is difficult you also like Ermenegildo Zegna or Prada or even Canali. It is more appropriate you like Versace or Jean Paul Gaultier as well. But as I said, it might be you have a “Cavalli moment” and you decide to wear one of the jackets or shirts from this brand when you just want to look like edgier or rockier during a night at OKKU in Dubai or at Nikki Beach in Miami. Bearing this in mind, you can look at a Cavalli fashion show with a not so critical look.
Today’s show, one of the not-so-unconventional shows ever made by Cavalli and also the second collection really designed by Roberto Cavalli’s youngest son, Daniele, was quite clean and not so colourful as the previous ones. Basically, it was a Cavalli looking more subtle and silent, than the usual screaming animal prints and embroidered flower details.
So, I have selected some looks that are more in line with the spirit of this blog and that can be used as inspiration for your “Cavalli moments” this season and the next.From the first one (a beautiful and quite elaborated front-zipped jumper), to the second one (a blue electric total look with a V-neck foiled T-shirt with some other fabric details here and there, always in blue colour), to the last one (another blue total look, with the lighter coloured jacket with embroidered black details on shoulders and on the upper chest).
Basically, we like those looks of Cavalli where there is an element of distorsion, or, better to say, a feature that spices up the whole ensemble.
What we do not like, is the Cavalli of the last two selected looks on this page: a shiny foiled jacket with shiny shoes (which makes even a David Bowie looks from the 70s being not so recognisable anymore) and a weird blue and green combo jacket in similar suede (which is just not right for a summer night).