"London Collections: Men" - Day 2
16th June, 2012
Here we are, guys.
Daily recap from the end of day 1 and the whole day 2 from this hectic London Collections: Men’s first edition.
The event is going to finish tomorrow, 17th of June, leaving the action field first to Milan Men’s Fashion Shows (in the calendar from the 23rd to the 26th of June) and then to Paris (from the 27th of June until the 1st of July). Indeed, New York has no Men’s Fashion Week (at least, not yet…) and will show the SS13 collections for Men together with the Womenswear during the SS13 Women’s Fashion Week in September.
But let’s go back to our first London Collection: Men.
As I said, the event is finishing tomorrow night with a double set of big events: a dinner organized by Dylan Jones (GQ UK editor) and co-hosted by Italo Zucchelli (Creative Director from Calvin Klein) and a party organized by Burberry and hosted by Christopher Bailey (Burberry’s Creative Director).
Further details of these events will come up on this blog in the next few days, under the indiscrete eye of your bloggers.
For now, let’s go back to business.
And let’s review together briefly the collections that have been showing in the last two days.
Starting from HACKETT, who showed their collection in the beautiful settings of the Royal Opera House, on a windy Friday morning at about 11am.
The collection shows again the typical spirit of this heritage UK brand, mainly divided between long-sleeved striped shirts and T-shirts and some light jackets. And, from my side, some interesting coupe of trousers.
I am not generally a fan of red or pink salmon trousers, but I have to say the ones I am presenting here, in the two looks I have selected, have something “very summerish” when put together with a striped long-sleeved polo shirt or a white linen jacket. Worth to be considered if you guys are planning a weekend in the country side (and you do not want to wear the usual Tommy Hilfiger looks…).
The look I found a bit weird (and for this reason, somehow, unbearable, is the dual coloured (pink and blue) flower stamp under a white jacket (which looked more suitable for a pajama party in the countryside when you want to repel people from the opposite or the same sex, depending on your tastes).
Thom Browne, Oliver Spencer
Other fashion shows worth mentioning are the one from Thom Browne, which was actually more a presentation of the collection in an ad-hoc olive green bus outside Harrods (please find on the left and then below two pictures taken from the outside) and Oliver Spencer, whose show highlighted some main key items such as a pair of white short with navy stripes trim and some nice colour blocking combinations such as the nice three coloured T-shirt completing a double-panel pair of brown and blue shorts and under a brown jacket.
With regards to the latter, I have also attached a curious picture of a piece of outerwear attached at the collar (not really a proper summer look…Maybe more an English summer look considering the latest temperatures here in London this June).
What made me scream NO was instead this other look, always from Oliver Spencer, with a weird three-colour blocking that just looks odd and inappropriate.
(P.S.: By the way, by colour blocking I mean blocks of solid colors worn together, just as a reminder…)
And since I do not want to be too wordy but I prefer leaving you some “Imaging” memories from this first edition of the London Collections: Men, here follow few other designers’ looks (so that you can always come back here and refer to them as an inspiration for your daily look, or worst, as NOT TO WEAR looks) always divided between 2 interesting looks and 1 “no-f***ing-way” look.
I hope you enjoy them…
First, let’s start with Jonathan Saunders (quite famous for his bright and well cut Womenswear) and the presentation of his colourful collection for Men.
First, you have one group picture with all the 10 looks he presented.
The two I have selected for you are: the green look with a very nice pair of shorts with this psychedelic print (I don’t usually like psychedelic, but if you want to wear something from Jonathan Saunders this could be definitively a must-have piece since he is quite famous for this) and the orange light jumper with the beige trousers and a nice black belt that breaks it all.
The one you would not want to wear or (even dare, I hope) is the “kind-of-mimetic-but-weird” outerwear trench coat, which seems that someone threw up on it as soon as they saw it…
Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz
Then, we have Christopher Shannon, young designer in his first (I have to say) very strong and interesting collection.
Apart from the weird coloured paper wigs the models have to wear, the collection was nice and delicate, with some strong looks such as the one below (very commercial), especially the mix of the blue indigo shorts (yes, guys, again: I have told you already, you are going to see many of these in the following days and in the next shows in Milan and Paris too…) and an irresistible large stripes sweater.
What I had to refrain my look from was instead the picture below with this weird long pink and red skirt which I thought could only be worn during a carnival in Rio (but not by you, but by your female friend… maybe…).
We had also E. Tautz, an old historic English brand, whose heritage is mainly characterized by military uniforms and very “cricket” outing looks.
And the show of yesterday confirmed this trend.
I selected two looks from the 27 presented: a nice combination of a tailored double-breasted jacket and same colour shorts (together with some colour matching blue sandals) and a nice blue t-shirt with a yellow head imprinted together with a pair of same coloured cotton trousers.
As a NO WAY look, there were this long and large pink silky trousers and a cashmere-like black pullover, which were making the model scream: “please, get me out of here NOW!” (and you can see that from the expression on his face…)
James Long, Matthew Miller
Finally, I picked up also two other young designers: James Long and Matthew Miller.
Since they are young and new to the scene, I just wanted to pick up the two looks for each one who made their best in the catwalk (in particular, I quite liked the sweater on the first look from James Long, which I found very “metallic” and strong, and, on the other side, the particular shoes from Matthew Miller, which are quite adaptable to the current summer’s changing temperature for your holiday breaks anywhere in Europe this year).