"Milan Men SS13 - Day 3"
25th June, 2012
Today’s fashion shows are:
9.30am – Emporio Armani
10.30am – Iceberg
11.30am – John Richmond
12.30pm – Gucci
2pm – Etro
4pm – Canali
6pm – Moschino
7pm – Missoni
8pm – Fendi
Presentations: Marc Jacobs Men (from 10am to 6pm), Class (from 2pm to 6pm), Alexander McQueen (from 4pm to 7pm)
OK… the third day of Milan Men’s shows started with a BOOM!!!
Emporio Armani was this BOOM.
Well, it is very hard for me to criticize any Armani creation.
Maybe, because I am pretty much in line with his way of portraying modern men.
Possibly, because I love his clean cuts and his light fabrics that make every garment comfortable to wear and highly fashionable at the same time.
Definitively, because I think he is a master in all menswear creations and he knows how to mix trendy with commercial (and more than $2bn reported revenues every year prove he knows this mix very well).
So, as usual, this Emporio Armani for SS13 was a great celebration of shorts, woven jackets, transparent T-shirts with fabric stripes able to underline your nice pecs (if this is the part of the body you have been focusing most during your winter work-outs), and tailored unstructured jackets (if instead you want to gently hide your belly but still look great).
With great difficulty, I have picked up two looks which I found less fascinating than the other six (the first one at the opening of this paragraph, the remaining five here above ) I thought were a HIT: these are more linked to the idea of a white undershirt with a sliced opening at the neck, that somehow does not fall very well under the jacket (still, it can be a strong piece by itself).
Mr Giorgio Armani never scares and never misses a good collection. I just wish to have more money to spend at his renewed Emporio Armani stores…
On the contrary, Iceberg collection, which followed one hour later, was a BIG delusion.
Not only I could barely find two looks I thought were relatively OK (which are the multicolour knit piece of some kind of Missoni remembrance and the light blue cardigan + T-shirt look), but the rest of the collection was very weak…
And it was too difficult to pick up just two looks which were awful and definitively too plain and lame for this SS13.
Also, by curiosity, I picked up a look I had already created myself using H&M pieces instead of expensive Iceberg garments: this is the one with the blue and black horizontally striped jumper under a blue trench coat.
The other 3 BAD looks I have picked… Well, they do not need any further explanation… I am sure you can easily pick up what it is wrong and I trust your judgment…
Jumping to the next big player of the day, Gucci, there is always an element of surprise in each collection from this brand.
There is always some kind of 70s inspired fashion when you look at some Gucci garments: 70s slim shapes and cuts, funky colours put together. Actually, this is all about 70s, all the time.
And that is why many people buy Gucci…
Apart from the colour explosion of pea green, fuchsia, orange and yellow (which I do not personally love when they are presented as total MONO colour looks…), I liked the combination of these colours with white.
You can see some of the looks I picked for inspiration are indeed composed by: a green top with white trousers, a white shirt with blue prints (the ONLY prints I saved from this show…) with same blue colour light trousers, a total white colour (for the ones who have nothing to hide…) and, finally, a white top on yellow trousers.
What I did not like, hence I show you here at the end, are three looks screaming “NO WAY”: a floral printed orangy pair of trousers, a striped suit (looking more like a pajama) and a fuchsia total look suit (please, don’t try this at home, even with just a T-shirt and a pair of fuchsia trousers... PINKy colours are not so fashionable anymore, don’t you know?).
Etro is the most oriental of Italian fashion brands showing in Milan.
Not only because of the use Kean Etro always does of Kashmir and other Turkish, Pakistani or Indian fabrics, but also because of the cuts and shapes which resemble and remind the spectator/buyer of oriental themes.
Now, as you can imagine, Etro is not what you can define “commercial”.
If you like Etro style, you like elaboration, embroidery, sometimes floral details on your suits, trousers, jackets, shirts. You like large and comfortable shape, and silk and cashmere.You will feel more (and look even more) as an Indian prince who goes on holiday on his own boat towards the European Mediterranean coasts.
So, bear this is mind when you look at what I have picked up here for us for SS13 under Etro.
I have picked up two looks for inspiration: both have very elaborated jackets with embroidered closing.
The other two following, which are the “NO WAY” looks, are composed instead by long silk garments with sophisticated prints…
Maybe a bit too sophisticated for an A-Man…
Let’s go back to the tradition of tailoring: Canali.
Canali is pure tailoring, pure formalwear, even in more casual forms or looks.
I am sure you are familiar with this brand: it’s been around for ages, and the favourite of many LA celebrities.
And suit is the keyword you will always hear from any Canali collection.
So, the looks I have picked up here are the two variations of a grey suit, both spiced up by some silk items with more seasonal colours (such as blue, violet, etc.) around the neck and inside the breast pocket.
And this is what you expect from a Canali collection.
What you do not expect are the two looks following: some coloured shiny prints on tailored jackets, either gold or green or purple, which are not in line with the brand philosophy.
Moschino’s style is not the easiest to wear.
Think fun and colour, when you think of Moschino.
So, again, this is not everyone’s cup of tea.
Definitively, it is not mine for many ideas. I like the pop colours they use in their collections, I like the way they make fun of commercial brands (such as supermarket brands) and they include them in fancy ways in their clothes, still I would not wear them.
And I would not suggest other people to buy them.
However, I found some nice trendy looks which I found irresistible somehow, especially when they mix strong colours in a way that looks playful and intriguing at the same time.
So I quite liked the three looks I have chosen (the first one on the left, the other two further below): the blue jacket with pink trousers (actually, this is the only PINK item I would personally approve in my wardrobe for this season, but only if paired up with a strong, masculine blue navy jacket), the Brazilian flag inspired look with shorts, belt and V-neck light top, the light caffe-latte suit with bow tie and striped shirt below.
Quite trendy, quite strong.
What I found unwearable (even if strong as commercial proposition to be remembered by) are the two closing looks (which were instead opening the show) of the label printed items.
Still, you are more than welcome to buy them if you want to scream out the brand’s name next season: I am sure you won’t pass unnoticed…
If you are a knitwear lover, you have probably heard already a lot about Missoni.
This family-owned business (by more than three generations) is quite famous for its multi-coloured and multi-layered knit pieces which have made this brand as highly recognisable across the world.
It is worth to remember so, if you ever want to buy a piece of Missoni for your own closet, always focus on the knitwear, on a multi-coloured jumper or jacket, highly elaborated pieces, very expensive (due to the cashmere and wool used in the production), but also very recognisable as Missoni signature from the crowd around you.
So, with this inspiration in mind, the looks I have chosen in this page are the following: a beautiful blended light brown and grey jumper, paired up with a light brown pair of shorts and multi-faceted jacket of the same consistence (on the right, please note here the richness of the fabrics and the texture of the materials, which seem to scream luxury and comfort all the way); a nice wool-made suit knitted in a quite elaborated pattern (and please, remember, if you ever really want to go for a wool suit, please only and exclusively go Missoni...); a beautiful opened up T-shirt with encrypted red and brownish details all over (please note the peculiarity and complexity of these details).
Still, there was also something not quite right with the “elaborated” concept which is generally the main background of a Missoni collection: this is quite summed up by the last look I have picked up here, which indeed represents the NO WAY look from this season from this brand, which embosses (especially with regards to the trousers) that PAJAMA look that many men would never dare to wear outside the boundaries of their own home (and maybe, not even inside...)
Last presentation of the day was FENDI.
Now, Fendi has always been famous (in the past) for its rich collections, generally coordinated by excessive furs and textured items, for both men and ladies.
This season, this collection did not claim any of these elements at all.
Indeed, it was a quite boring collection, maybe too overstated and too “queer-ish” to be really considered as a Menswear proposal.
So, the only look I could BARELY save (and which can sit together with the rest of the collections we have been seeing and selecting up until now) is this basic shirt-shorts-outerwear look, all in the same colour.
Then, I have just picked up two of the worst looks I have ever seen...
As you can see, no comments is needed with regards to these.