"The Great Gatsby Effect"
20th May, 2013
It is finally here...
Everyone has been talking about it, already months ago. And you could have seen its "inspirational" effect in many fashion shows from the latest FW13 in Milan and Paris, in both Menswear and Womenswear.
We are talking about the Great Gatsby.
And its related 20s style effect...
Of course, here in A-Men we simply want to focus on the men's tailoring which is proposed in the movie (we leave you the nice part of discovering in full the plot at the cinema).
And to reveal the style beneath the characters, in many of the key scenes in the movie.
But first of all, let's reveal the MAIN theme.
Where the clothes come from?
After many gossips (which involved the mention of big pretentious names such as Prada), we can finally tell you where the fancy suits and tuxedos come from.
No, they do not come from Armani, or Dior Homme or even Saint Laurent (even though, as you will see further down, the main actors in the movie - Di Caprio and Maguire - prefer to opt for the latter for their red carpet appearances in Cannes...).
They are all from Brooks Brothers! Yes, the American tailoring brand.
Are you surprised? Well, you should, considering the heritage of this American brand, whcih, for the occasion, created a special "Great Gatsby" inspired section in his e-commerce website, where you can replicate some of the key looks (including tapered trousers...) before they even come out from the movie picture.
In the movie, as in life, socioeconomic class defines a character's dress.
In 1920s New York, class was beginning to change.
Old money and Tom Buchanan-types were losing their hold on American culture.
Gatsby and his parvenus pushed the boundaries of "appropriate."
Bye-bye tailcoats. Hello tuxedos.
In the extravagant party scenes, Baz Luhrmann (the director) mixes the old guard with the new.
Luhrmann's Tom wears a fitted, dark blue, double-breasted vest and suit coat. He is restrained.
Gatsby sports that pink linen suit—a detail modern readers remember because of its connotations with gender.
In its cultural context, however, the color was about class and about showiness. The pink suit—pinstriped and paired with a burgundy tie and gold collar bar—reveals Gatsby's true beginnings.
Tom and Nick adhere to the kind of sartorial understatement their mummy taught them and they cultivated on green quads. The contrast between the blueblood and the bootlegger is striking, and moviegoers would get it without the multiple mentions of the suit by Buchanan.
As we said above, if audiences literally want to get it, they can hightail it to Brooks Brothers.
Still, what is the reality?
Between the tailored suits and the impeccable vanilla white knitwear, you have then the main actors dressing up in Saint Laurent for the Cannes premiere (and snobbing instead the more familiar Brooks Brothers looks), thus marrying a look (the real 20s tuxedos) out of the movie with more confidence.
Nevertheless, the looks are done... And we are pretty sure to see many "inspired" gentlemen in the streets coming up with those looks Mr Di Caprio and Mr Maguire show up in the different scenes.
So, the question that we pose to you (as the main Menswear fashion shows did already propose you a couple of months ago, during the Men's FW13 shows) is:
Are you a Jay Gatsby or a Tom Buchanan type?