MILAN MEN'S AW13 - DAY TWO
13th January, 2013
When you have no more certainties about life, don't worry: there is still Prada.
Miuccia Prada presented one of her most commercial (we know she hates that word, but I am sure Prada's management is quite happy instead about that) ever.
Finally, some colour came into the Milan shows: electric light blue, red, camel and again grey.
We loved the detail of the shirt coming up from the sweaters just on one side (in both collar and hem).
Authentic were also the outerwear pieces, in particular the winter coats and the high volume leather coats.
Also remarkable were the suits, as usual perfectly cut, with the knitted sweaters (with wide open cut-through collar) underneath the jackets.
And the shoes... All the brown shiny brogues were simply amazing.
Here below our pick ups from this Prada AW13 collection.
Still, there were a couple of looks that not even the brightest Prada followers would like to wear...
Possibly these are a bit too over-stated compared to the simplicity of the show.
Here they are for you few of them below...
Bottega Veneta show can look like a monotone collection at first sight.
But the black colour, characterising 90% of the looks, was the perfect complement to a collection that showed beautiful leather jackets, well cut oversized coats, sophisticated outerwear with detailed zip pocketsand leather trims.
Many accessories (men's bags) were complementing the show, sometimes even stealing the look of buyers and press from the ready-to-wear pieces.
Impeccable suits and double breasted jackets in black and light brown were the key character of this collection, which seemed to be strange since this is the first time the brand moves so strongly towards the "sartorial" element.
We are pretty sure though, that everyone in the audience really liked this direction. And the same will do Bottega Veneta's customers.
But, as in every dreamy collection, there are always some looks to be afraid of.
Here are a couple we just selected as "not perfectly in line" with the Bottega Veneta leit-motiv of this season...
And here they are: our favourite picks of the intriguing Dame Vivienne Westwood's AW13 show in Milan.
Lots of carry-forward element from the great Vivienne, always together with her witty sense and eccentricism.
We know it is not for all, but still it is the best way to give some colour and fun to some outdated looks out there...
But there wer also a coule of un-wearable looks, not so defining the Vivienne Westwood mood...
One of the ebst collections ever from Salvatore Ferragamo.
Dark and sensual at the same time, in black and blue shades, far away from the traditional sartorial looks that made this brand known worldwide back in the 60s.
Here you have a moder man, dressed with beautiful black coats and outerwear, showing off high knitted round collars and beautiful leather gloves, and walking on soft and shiny ankle leather boots.
There were so many pieces to look at and almost all the collection seemed spotless.
Very commercial and very strong. We are pretty sure we will see a lot of Salvatore Ferragamo (and of course many imitations of it from the high street retailers) next season.
And somehow we are really looking forward to seeing these pieces available in store...
Here below our favourite picks of Trussardi's AW13 Men show.
Countryside elements and knitwear were quite strong this time around. It was an interesting collection but not so commercially strong like the one from Spring/Summer.
The subtle legance is still there, but something else is missing...
And three looks were DEFINITIVELY not there (actually, they did not look Trussardi at all, and also there were a bit too strange to be seen or to be worn...
Lots have been said these days about the case of Alberto Missoni (first heir of the Missoni's family business) in Venezuela while on board of a plane mysteriously disappeared while or orute to the beautiful Los Roques islands.
Nevertheless, this AW13 collection showed again the sobriety and the efforts of the Missoni brand, moving upward in the apparel chain towards garments that not only cover the knitwear segment.
Still the multi-colour knitwear stays as the core, but here you have many other (well done) attempts of marrying the inner brand philosophy into different garments, such as outerwear (camel coats in particular), trousers and wool jackets.
Here our favourite picks from this AW13 collection.
The breaking news of this season is the decision by Roberto Cavalli (in the person of his son, Daniele, who now manages the whole Menswear division) of swapping from doing a show to presenting the collection through a standing presentation.
The direction is more sartorial, but still quite focused in the prints and in the elaborated embroidery on jackets and trousers. We know it is not everyone's cup of tea, but Cavalli is still loved by many fashionistas out there.
Here are our favorite picks from this AW13 collection.
And, again, also some pieces and looks that we thought to be un-wearable...
Compared to last season and the previous years, Iceberg's collection was a powerful one this season.
There were a lot of remainders to the Bauhaus movement, and yet you can see here some of the best knitwear pieces and sweaters for the upcoming AW13.
We really hope Iceberg keeps on following this path in the coming collections, as it finally seems to have found what the brand should be.
Of course, there were also some looks where that same inspiration went too far and created some "little monsters" as the ones we have picked up below as part of the "NO WAY" section.
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
Commercial, clever and clean do equal Calvin Klein Collection.
Of course, black is always the king of the show, and you know already what to expect from Calvin Klein shows: no embroidery, no particula re-workings of the fabrics. Just the bare necessities, revamped in a clever and elegant way by Italo Zucchelli.
Here are our favourite picks from the collection.
But also some weird stuff, especially when the brand moves the concept of the "dual fabrics" garments (especially when in regards to jackets, which seems to be a strong leit-motiv of all the AW13 collections here in Milan and previously in London) too far... As you can see from the image below.