MILAN MEN'S AW13 - DAY ONE
12th January, 2013
Corneliani is one of the master, together with Brioni and Ermenegildo Zegna (and of course, the King Giorgio Armani to a certain extent) of the traditional and most known Italian sartorial school.
The Menswear AW13 collection was a further proof of this. Suits were the key message, but not the exclusive ones.
Here we have some interesting knitwear pieces, especally the ones with fur collar, coming out on the catwalk. A couple of mixed fabrics sweaters (in particular the one with three belts fastening) and leather jackets, in dark grey and dark bordeaux, were outstanding as well as perfectly cut.
Still, the suits are always the core element you, as a customer, will always look for when you get into a Corneliani store.
Grey and bordeaux were the main colours, as you can see from the images we picked up below.
Grey was also the KEY colour of Ermenegildo Zegna's collection here in Milan.
Grey suits, grey sweaters, grey trousers.
And grey coats, as well, as the one opening the show.
It was the triumph of double breasted (grey) suits.
Other interesting pieces were the padded nylon vests on top of white shirts (you see two of them selected below) and a sweater with top visible hook fastening at the collar.
Also a black over coat with the top closing, resembled the typical elegance of the Zegna's style.
But there were also few BLACK spots (to forget), such as the pajama-like looks in terms of suits and overcoats and few other mistakes, which cannot be part of the Zegna's wardrobe.
We have selected the three biggest ones here below, just so you don't look at them with admiration by mistake... :)
The key element of every Burberry's show is outerwear.
In particular, the trench coat. So you won't be surprised to see, once gaian, the trench coat, in different fabrics and colours, as the king of this AW13 fashion show from Christopher Bailey.
And double breasted was the key theme: the double breasted coats, suits and trenches, with close up button fastening, revamped the traditional look of these garments.
A rubber coat appearing at the end of the show also was an interesting addition to that "fashionista" Burberry customer, for whom price is not an issue.
Also an interesting elaborated knitwear top and a wool/cashemere blend single-breasted peacoat, both in dark military green, were worth noticing.
Unfortunately, there were some hideous items, which stood out for the fact there were not at all in line with the rest of the collection or with the typical clean look of Burberry's style.
We are talking here about the heart-printed shirts and sweaters and the printed animals (leopard and jaguar) coats below as our "NO WAY" section...
Dolce & Gabbana
There is none more serious about Menswear than Dolce & Gabbana.
And they showed it again this season with a collection of more than 85 looks for all their male customers worldwide.
The key elements of Dolce & Gabbana tradition were again reinstated: the Sicilian look, embossed in the black suits and the white shirts.
The double breasted suit came back strong here too, as in many other designers' brands here in Milan, with some rich details at Dolce & Gabbana, such as the elaborated stitching on the front of the shirts.
Also, the "gilet" (or "doppio petto" in Italian), meaning the waist-coat underneath suits and coats, was a key element (and we are sure here at A-Men we are going to see many of this in all the designers that do sartorial work too, both in Milan and Paris).
Interesting were also some of the T-shirts with iconic religious images in-printed, but only when the prints were not too daring or too crowded.
But it would be impossible not to find some flaws in such an extensive collections.
What we did not like, was the exaggeration of prints (in particular the floral ones) on coats and jackets, which was a clear detachment from the clear sartorial selection.
Also, some of the "too crowded" religious iconic T-shirts and long-sleeve tops were a bit too daring and too baroque-sque for a time (and season) where classic look is coming back with a bang.
Our favourite picks from the Jil Sander AW13 show...
And our "NO WAY" looks from the designer's show... (And you can understand why...)
Here are our favourite picks from Costume National's AW13 show today...
Versace's show closed the first day of Milan Men's AW13 collections.
Here are our favourite looks taken out from Donatella's show, where we loved the coats, the sartorial looks, the logo underwear, the half-ties.
And, as usual, our NO WAY looks, which we found too daring even for a Versace collection.
The American rocker designer hits Milan AW13 with a dark collection, where black and purple (and bordeaux, again) are the main colours.
Leather jackets, mixed fabrics coats and sweaters (where the sleeves are a differnt fabric from the main cloth, as already many other designers are doing for this AW13) are the key elements.
A selection of those in our picked up images below.
But also for John Varvatos, there were some looks which did not fit with the other clear message coming out from the collection, and that simply did not look right...
Clean, simple, linear: those were the attributes of Neil Barrett Men's AW13.
Very interesting were the inserted details at the hem of the sweaters underneath the long camel and wool coats, and the three paneled (and coloured) sweaters.
Below the selected looks we have just mentioned above and more.
But there were also few things to forget about this collection, such as the two looks below...