London Collections: Men - Day 2 (cont'd) and Day 3
08th January, 2013
Alexander McQueen' s men show in London yesterday evening was THE place to be at London Collections: Men AW13.
Sarah Burton recreated the craftmanship of pure Savile Row tailoring (the place where Alexander McQueen nearly twenty years ago started his practice of the sartorial art) with an edge of creativity and some peculiar details, which are part of the McQueen tradition and heritage.
Beautiful were the long vertical striped suits and slim overcoats (which we love to call them "gessato" in typical sartorial terminology) and the long neck sweaters in double colours (black and white/black and red).
There were also a couple of pieces (actually, three...) that were not fitting with the sartorial environment of the collection and which we reported at the end of our selection of images here.
Jonathan Saunders' eclectic colours and shapes reappeared at his presentation for AW13 at London Collections: Men - Day 2.
As usual, some pieces, like the tangerine coat and jacket and the suits with sleeves in different colours, were astonishing, and really remarked the focus of this young designer that keeps on innovating the Menswear scene in London and worldwide.
Some of the more eccentric pieces, such as the psychedelic technicolour shirts underneath some of the jackets, were less interesting and especially less wearable.
Check out our selection of the key looks for us below for your reference.
The great translation of women's shoes concepts into the Menswear world is not something very easy to do.
Nicholas Kirkwood is one of the few designers able to translate these concepts between the two wolrds in an eclectic and original way.
We love the zig-zag details (as we like to call them) on the leather shoes, as well as the dual colour combination (generally black and blue) on the lace ups.
A special attention to the mini studs collection: something you cannot refrain from noticing.
We are sure we are going to hear more and more about this young designer and his incredible work.
Lee Roach introducing... Lee Roach
The deconstruction of the garment, the linearity of the shapes, the lightness of the fabrics.
This is the philosophy of Lee Roach, while he presented to A-Men the key items of his AW13 collection.
THe black colour of his simple sweaters/overcoats, without shoulder pads and completely deconstructed in the sleeves and on the waist, provide the wearer with a soft and light feeling, together with the one-buckle fastening.
Also, the nylon puffer is the latest representation of lightness. You can see there is a lot of research and attention to the touching feeling by this young designer.
We just look forward to seeing his new creations for SS14 next June...
The English Gentleman in pure E. Tautz's style hit the London Collections: Men on the final day.
There was a lot of originality in the multi-printed wool coats and some good tailoring in all the suits that walked down the catwalk.
A bit less convincing were some of the knitwear, which reminded many themes used previously, otherwise the collection had many commercial elements.
It is difficult to find negatives in a collection (and a show) of only 18 pieces...
But here they are, our 6 favourite picks of Hardy Amies.